‘Refined authenticity’ – Bhoomi

Bhoomi

Bhoomi, boasting their boldly authentic South Indian, yet sophisticated flavours

Cheltenham has a wonderful restaurant scene and is going to feature prominently on this site in the coming months.  I first visited in 2013 and have been fortunate enough to return at regular intervals, most recently in February this year when I sampled the far from ordinary, yet extremely authentic South Indian restaurant ‘Bhoomi’  and their signature ‘Tour of Bhoomi’ 5 course tasting menu.  At £45 per person, the price point is in my view right where it should be, alongside a £35 per person wine flight, which is astonishingly well paired and introduced by the team at Bhoomi.  At £80 all in for 5 courses, extra kitchen surprises and 5 generous and expertly paired glasses of wine, the overall package is competitive and good value, particularly when a 3 course à la carte option at somewhere even slightly more modest is going to set you back £30-40 anyway.  Throw in a bottle of wine and the Tour of Bhoomi with wine tasting becomes all the more enticing.  If à la carte is your preference, Bhoomi has an excellent offering that combines the tasting menu refinement of dishes with a more classic British Indian style menu of starter + main + rice + sides.

You will find Bhoomi on Suffolk Road, in the middle of a short parade of bars, restaurants and other retail premises and a stones throw from the extremely trendy Montpellier district, starting to set the tone for the evening.  That leads me on nicely to the blessing the restaurant has, which is the premises itself.  Entering into the light, relaxed bar area, you can sit and enjoy a few cocktails, a beer or perhaps a gin and tonic (Opihr of course, with its wonderful Oriental notes setting you up for an evening of spices).  When your table is ready, you enter through the curtains as if the performance is soon to begin, presented by a wonderfully spacious but intimately dressed and lit dining room with contemporary decor and lots of nooks and crannies perfect for private dining.

After an amuse bouche that resembled a stunning twist on that old fashioned bombay mix you used to get from the snack aisle in the supermarket, the first course ‘Kala’ arrived, 24 hour marinated salmon traditionally roasted in a tandoor, spiked with chilli and mango.  The accompanying Riesling was the perfect refreshingly sweet wine needed to temper the spice and sharpness of the wonderfully soft salmon and mango, respectively.  ‘Alleppey Beef’ followed, a melt in the mouth fillet of beef, tumeric and chilli reduction with lightly spiced potatoes.  A smashing Malbec selection works wonderfully with this dish.  The first featured image above is ‘Butter Chicken and Vegetable Tikki’, packed with cardamom, chilli, tomato and cream, which alongside a delicate vegetable patty is set off perfectly by Bhoomi’s Chardonnay selection, refreshing the palate from the intense rich, creamy curry sauce.

The common theme of the evening was an exemplary service, symmetrical in the way plates arrived at the table, but relaxed, chatty and in no way overbearing.  This was a truly wonderfully relaxed yet sophisticated dining experience.

Rising to the top of my list of ‘wow’ dishes was the next course, ‘Kerala Lamb and Parotta’.  Mind blowing diced lamb leg, tender as you like cooked slowly with green chilli, bell peppers, soy and curry leaves.  Served with a new first for me, ‘Parotta’.  A traditional South Indian flatbread made with maida flour and egg.  The dish overall packed an intense heat, lip smacking umami notes from the soy and a smooth Italian Montepulciano to wash it all down.  I cannot speak highly enough of this dish, the most moreish Indian dish I can remember having.  Traditional but refined – a consistent theme of the evening.

Dessert course was a treat and great fun, the pictured ‘Chocolate Samosa’ finished with ice cream, fruits and coulis and balanced nicely with a light and fresh Muscat dessert wine.  It was an opportunity to play to the British palate but at the same time remain true to a traditional samosa recipe…only this time filled with an indulgent chocolate ganash.

Bhoomi impressed so much and overall presented such an enjoyable experience, that in returning to Cheltenham, it will now compete strongly for one of our evening bookings at every occasion.  How on earth will we get around the rest of the restaurant scene?!  So with a traditional South Indian menu, taken up several notches in refinement, Bhoomi truly is not your average curry house.  Highly recommended.

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